The surfing community

There’s a group of people in Balboa who climb on things, hang off lamp posts, stand on cars and fences, jump on walls and railings.  This kind of behaviour would normally be frowned upon, be given a second glance and perhaps a glare.  But here, down at the beach, it’s accepted, it’s a necessity.  How else can you see and assess the surf conditions?

There’s a large, flat stretch of sand between the road and the ocean, there’s no time to waste walking down to the water’s edge. So, surfers stop their cars and climb up onto whatever is available to see what’s happening.

The ocean has various swells all along the peninsula.  There are areas with a sharp shore break and surfers want to make sure they’re surfing at the best spot for that day’s conditions.  Information is exchanged and handed on to other surfers to make sure they all know where the best swell is that day.

I always think that absolutely no work must get done on good swell days.  Surfers come running from all directions, sprinting across the sand in their wetsuits to get into the water.  At school drop-off, dads discuss swell and hurriedly kiss their children goodbye so that they can rush home and get their boards.

Maybe there’s just an understanding here.  Large swell?  I won’t be in the office for a while.  Offices must be empty when the ocean is full of surfers.

As we cycle to school in the morning, the truly dedicated surfers are returning to their cars in the car park.  Some leave large buckets of fresh water sitting on a mat at the back of their car, ready to change into work clothes.  This is a daily activity for them and they have their routine down pat.  Others leave the back of their car open, their dog sitting dutifully waiting for their master to return.  Some just sit and chat, wetsuit still on, talking swells, conditions and boards.

Then, there are the retired surfers.  A group of older guys that gather each morning, coffee and donut in hand, to watch.  They sit on a wall, huddled together, no longer able or wanting to surf but still needing that early morning connection with friends.

Me?  I have my wetsuit and my boogie board.  But I’m a fair weather surfer.  It has to be summer, the water warmer.  But I really want to join this community, I envy women picking up their boards and heading to the water.  It may be time to join in the Surf Camp this summer, but I said that last summer.  Maybe now that it’s in print, I won’t back out.